Sunday, January 23, 2011

100+ wave day...

Surfing merry-go-round yesterday... a moon driven dropping tide, glassy water & solo on a point break (except for the little shark I saw)... counted the waves I caught... on my 45th, I had caught a wave to match my age... @ 83 rides, one guy joined me for barreling take offs off the rock... continued trading off catching pulses of longperiod bliss... over a hundred waves carved... a choice workout for the soul!

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